A visit to England’s oldest National Park had me reflecting on bravery, sacrifice, and the need for waterproof trousers.
England has many protected outdoor areas, each with their own character, and the Peak District National Park showcases the highs and lows of visiting rural Britain. This splodgy area between the industrial cities of Sheffield and Manchester contains history, outstanding natural beauty, local character and sporting activities. Yet the wind and water that lurk in the clouds still derail so many plans…
We drove through the Midland countryside from Bristol to our base at the Yorkshire Bridge Inn, passing the twisty tower of Chesterfield church and the home of the synthetically tasty Bakewell tart. Blessed with sunshine on our first day, we skirted around the Ladybower reservoir, watching the luminous grass banks host olive-green smudges of colour from the shadows of the overhead clouds. It’s hardly original to describe a sense of peace when reconnecting with nature but it is honest. Memories of cramped city commutes, computer screens and conference calls dissolve when even mobile phone reception fails.
Ladybower, however, is not as ‘natural’ as she first seems. This is an entirely man-made reservoir, created in the twentieth century to relieve the water shortages in Sheffield and around. Two villages, Derwent and Ashopton, were systematically flooded to create this peaceful scene and their ruins still lie below the water level. A giant plug-hole sits on the west bank, poised to manage overflow. In these parts, torrential rainfall is only ever just around the corner.
Win Hill rises up from the reservoir edge, accessible from a number of footpaths and bridleways. From the exposed, windswept peak, I appreciated for the first time the rugged nature of the Peak District. The rocky outcrops, the reservoirs – and the creamy cement factory, which somehow blended into the experience.
The first thick drops of rain chased us back into the valley, to shelter in that traditional British institution, the pub. Back within warmth and safety and sipping a pint of honeyed Yorkshire Pride I gazed at the photographs displayed between the ceramic jugs and “Gardener of the Year” awards. A lonely church spire rises out of the lake, the last sign of this Derbyshire Atlantis.
Water takes no prisoners in the Peak District.
Read Day Two in the Peak District here.
Hello Abigail
Good to meet another Bristol Blogger. It feels a bit lonely sometimes when all your blogging friends are on the otherside of the world.
Perhaps you'd like to get together some time & swap travel and blogging experience.
You'll find my e-mail on my blog if you'd like to meet up.
Best wishes from Heather
http://www.heatheronhertravels.com/about/
Thanks Heather – I'll be in touch,
Best wishes,
Abi
Hi Abigail,
I really enjoyed reading this. I live in Derby (once lived in Manchester) and my parents grew up in the White Peak. I have walked all round this area many times and ache to be out in the peaks.
I remember the summer of 1976, when the water level in Ladybower was so low that the ruins of Ashopton became visible!
And the Blue Circle cement works at Bradwell can be seen from a surprising distance. (BTW – Bradwell ices are beautiful ice creams!)
One small correction. Bakewell is the home of the Pudding, not the tart. It’s a very different animal, and the recipe is a closely guarded secret.
You have a great way with words. I love your language. It is evocative and descriptive.
Thanks.
H
H – Thank you for the compliments – and the correction. However, now I am deeply intrigued – what’s in a Bakewell Pudding?
I have very fond memories of the area – I would love to have seen it when the ruins were visible above the water. Best wishes, Abi
Hi Abi,
I can’t tell you exactly what is in a Bakewell pudding, because the pudding bakers at the Original Bakewell Pudding Shop are (quite literally) sworn to secrecy. I can tell you, however, that it is much deeper than a tart, with a shortcrust pastry base, a jam (and something)filling and a very rich, moist sponge like topping which has a distinctive taste of almond. There is no icing in sight and you won’t find a cherry on the top.
From the description, it sounds quite stodgy, but it isn’t. Good Bakewell puddings are light and full of flavour.
Next time you are up this way, I would recommend trying one!
Meanwhile, enjoy the countryside around Bristol. You have quite a lot to shout about too!
H :)
The plot thickens! I certainly will have to try one – and track down the Original Bakewell Pudding Shop.
Thanks – Abi