It’s early morning as I peer through the glass at number 4 Glockengasse and a proud man in a duffel coat stares back. He ignores me, though…

One put Cologne on the map, the other keeps children happy, but it’s the third that forms the lifeblood of Germany’s most colourful city. This series explores a city in flux, through Cologne’s three extraordinary liquids.

Apparently this week is chocolate week in the UK. So, never mind that it sounds like nothing more than an excuse to buy, sell, eat, scoff and dream of chocolate…

Right there, among all those dignitaries, I discovered Cologne’s secret streak…

A sleek business hotel with a great view of the imposing Cologne cathedral from several rooms and the 12th floor bar…

They say that you never forget your first time – and for me that was in Seville. While strolling along in the unfiltered sunshine, sharp flashes of light caught my eye. This was it, this was what I had heard about: