People often describe the view from Miyajima Island as one of the most beautiful in Japan. A softly curved Torii, a scarlet figure similar to the symbol pi, rises out of the water. Its calm background: layered mountains and the ferryboats crossing from Hiroshima.

As the sleek shinkansen train slid into Hiroshima station, I admit I felt nervous. Yet for all the studies and reports, I was still unprepared for what I saw.