Travel The World

I’ll See You In The Hague

A city with the charm of Frankfurt, the friendliness of Paris and the culture of Scunthorpe – Ron Pattinson

ICJ in shadows The Hague

The Hague

If any two words have come to symbolize the full weight of international justice and global condemnation they are The Hague.

War crimes, genocide and crimes against humanity hang in the balance here, as the world’s brightest lawyers look evil in the eye beneath the tree blossom and tiered brick gables of canalside houses in this part of the Netherlands.

Or so I thought. But like pretty much everything else in life, it’s a little more complicated for that.

For a start, of course, for the people who live in or near The Hague, the words don’t mean force of global justice as much as they simply mean home: traffic jams, traffic lights, Chinese takeaways and rows of bicycles interlinking betwixt networks and networks of canals.

Second of all, The Hague isn’t even its name. It’s Den Haag (and, officially, it’s not even that, we should all be calling it s’Gravenhage.) Whichever version you use, you still need to throw in that extra definite article.

And thirdly, it’s far from being the global force seen in films when the good guy dismisses the bad with the line “I’ll see you in The Hague.”

Canal at the Hague

The thing we’re actually talking about is the International Criminal Court (as opposed to the International Court of Justice which is also in The Hague and which deals with legal disputes between states.)

The ICC (different to the cricket council) carries the lofty aims of making the world a better place but it turns out that holding crazy despots accountable for mass murder isn’t as straightforward as it sounds like it should be. Evidence is often hard to come by, not least because to be able to orchestrate these kinds of crimes you need a lot of henchmen, a severely crippled press and scant access to outside organisations.

Moreover, after some conflicts, one nation’s menace becomes another nation’s hero, leading to legal extradition wrangles of the sort seen after the wars in the former Yugoslavia.

And last, but by no means least, is the problem that not everyone has signed up to it, meaning they can’t be bound by it. Rather poignantly, Israel, the United States and the Sudan (another “the”,) for example, have not.

Dove mosaic Hague

Still, it’s not all doom and gloom. In April 2004 for the first time in history, every country in the world (197 at that point) endorsed a joint Statement for Peace and donated a stone from their country to create a World Peace Pathway that’s still visible in The Hague.

The younger me would have dismissed this as an empty, pointless gesture; the older I get, the more I see it as a sign of progress.

Sunset at The Hague

So against that backdrop, The Hague is a curious place to visit, particularly alone and in the midst of winter.

It’s only a short train ride away from riotous, gleaming Amsterdam, and by comparison, The Hague’s activity seems ordered, its finances restrained. And while I wouldn’t quite agree with the quote at the start of this piece, its tourists are in conspicuously short supply.

In fact, as I strolled around, the only place I found them was outside a long lawned pathway, blocked off by stark iron gates. Three or four people pressed their faces against the railings and others posed with elderly relatives in the shadows outside the bars.

The peace flame flickered in the bitter winter wind.

Reaching hands Hague

I shivered at the thought of us standing here in the rain, while those responsible for some of the worst crimes in living history waited on the other side, waited as lawyers sifted evidence day after day after day.

I felt the same sense of unease as I did in Nuremberg, Auschwitz, Nagasaki and in the dark corners of Berlin.

What is it that we are looking for? What is it that we have come here to find? Understanding? Respect? A sense of belonging or of seeking revenge? A tickbox event? A grisly fascination? Or simply a craving for a deeper human connection?

Do these places function as a gesture of defiance and pride? Or do they demonstrate a need for justice and a path towards forgiveness and reconciliation?

Peace Flame Hague

In any case, my philosophical wranglings were misplaced. Those stark black bars and that flickering, burning flame marked, on closer inspection, the entrance to the ICJ not the ICC.

An elderly gentleman, presumably there with his son, offered to take my photo and refused to take no for an answer.

I didn’t want to fight. I wanted to accept his kind gesture.

So now, whenever I see this ever so average shot of an ever so average girl, I smile at both its insignificance and its importance to the world.

Abi at The Hague

For the repetition of the kindness of strangers, when everything else is stripped away, is truly the foundation for that dream of World Peace.

We can’t all be Mother Theresa, Nelson Mandela or Gandhi (and let’s face it, even they could only be one of the three.)

But we can all start somewhere.

As Roosevelt said: do whatever you can, with whatever you’ve got, from wherever you are.

The flame in the stone grew bolder as the winter sunlight slipped from the sky.

I walked away from the bars and walked on through The Hague.

Leaving The Hague

I visited The Hague as part of the Europe: Highs & Lows project Read more here.

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3 Responses to I’ll See You In The Hague

  1. SAM February 18, 2014 at 6:26 pm #

    Abi,

    This article left me deep in thought with nothing further to add or say as you had so eloquently and much better than I could have possibly done myself expressed the uniqueness of this place and the unexpected ambivalence that often
    ensues from a visit.
    I found my trip to s’Gravenhage (as
    you correctly and most accurately pointed is its most correct or official moniker) many years ago to be one of the most unsettling and somewhat disturbing travel experiences that
    I had embarked upon despite how peaceful and beautiful the physical location truly was. I was left
    confused and dissapointed as to
    what real function this “place” actually served in a world filled with laws, rules, regulations,etc., which serve to better protect the alleged perpetrators of the heinous crimes that they have been charged with than the “world” and it’s innocent people from said villains and others like them who have never been (and probably never will be) apprehended and required to face “justice” in this
    venerable, well intentioned highly civilized but seemingly powerless
    place where although the truth is spoken justice is rarely if ever achieved.
    You brought back with this excellent post all the emotions that I experienced so looong ago in addition to further insight into this perplexing situation with your incredibly insightful analysis.

    You truly earned your drink(s) in one (or more) of The Hague lovely bars.

    Cheers and happy travels.

    Should our paths ever cross, it would
    be my honour and pleasure to toast your excellent work and future success.

    Sam

    • Abi King February 19, 2014 at 6:27 pm #

      Only metal bars on this particular visit to The Hague – I’ll have to go back in the summer some time with someone else to get a different flavour of the place. Yes, it’s a confusing place – but all those rules and regulations arise out of “us” trying to avoid becoming like “them” with out of control power I suppose. Interesting place, much to think about.

  2. creativedesignsblog March 25, 2014 at 7:45 am #

    Well organized and well captured photos. I like your album for its series of pictures that is telling the whole story itself.

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