Children on Uros Floating Islands, Peru
High in the Andes, our little boat jolts unevenly as it battles with Lake Titicaca’s choppy waves. The sky is overcast but even without the heavy clouds we’d struggle to see the shore. South America’s largest lake lives at 3,800 metres, separates two countries and behaves like a mountainous ocean god.
However, it’s not the lake we’ve come to see, but its inhabitants, the Uros community who live and float here among the clouds.
The Uros community lives and floats on Lake Titicaca, among the clouds.
Years ago (in that voice used by grandparents when they gloss over troubles they’d rather everyone forgot), conflict arose on the Peruvian shore around Puno. Whether it was the might of the Incas, fire, pestilence or an unpaid tax bill, something drove the Uros people to build their own escape.
They used reeds to construct islands complete with houses, shops and watchtowers and launched themselves into a new way of life.
A rather harsh one, it seemed, when I visited. There’s little protection from the swirling winds and waters and the biodegradable nature of their housing requires relentless replenishment. Through fishing, and increasingly tourism, the Uros communities are self-sufficient, weaving patterned hats and shawls for trade and travelling to the mainland only for emergencies.
As the world continues to change, it will be interesting to see what choices these children will make. Will they continue the traditions of their grandparents? Or will they return to dry land?
View from a Boat: One of the 40 or so Uros Islands on Lake Titicaca
Thanks for sharing this piece. It was fascinating and so very informative.
Wonderful post Abigail – and particularly interesting for me – I just returned from Peru and spent a couple of days at schools with children in Aguas Calientes. Your post is a great addition to my education, so thank you!
Thank you!
There have been many news reports concerning rain-related damage in the department of Puno, and, on account of those stories, Libertador Hotels, Resorts & Spas wishes to set the record straight that the devastated area is very far away from the destination’s major hotels, around 100 kilometers in fact, and that is why hotel managers and tour operators in Puno are guaranteeing that travelers will be 100% safe.
“It’s important for tourists to know that hotels are located far from the affected area and that they can stick to their travel plans to go to Lake Titicaca and other destinations around the region with no danger whatsoever,” stated Luis Barboza, Libertador Operations Manager. He went further and asked media to inform that roads connecting Puno with Tacna, Arequipa, and Cusco are operating normally, as are those crossing the border into Bolivia, and that access to the Juliaca Airport is completely open and has not been affected by the rains.
As some may know, this is the week in which Puno celebrates “La Candelaria”, perhaps its busiest tourist time of the year. The feast is in full swing, and those tourists who have already reached Puno are enjoying the traditions, culture, and natural settings this marvelous destination has to offer.
Lima, Peru
February, 4, 2010
I boated out to the reed islands from Puno in 1969. Nothing has changed. The first artefact visible from afar was a thin structure, statue to an obscure god? primitive engineering construct? random accumulation of reeds? it was a goal posts. Statue to an obscure god after all. I think your website is fantastic and revolutionarilly brilliant. Magnificent!
Praise is always welcome on this site ;) And it still amazes me to learn just how widespread football is (unless they were rugby goal posts and then I’ll move on to shock!)
I’m so sad that we missed Lake Titicaca…there were violent protests happening in Puno last week and they closed the border from Bolivia. Sounds very interesting – what a tough life…
It’s a fascinating place. I’m sorry you missed it, too…
I’m definitely going to go to Lake Titicaca. It’s fascinating! Did you use Puno as a base or did you go from Copacabana? I heard you can’t see the Isla del Sol and Isla de la Luna from Puno? Any tips?
Pff. I went there a long, long time ago so I’d be reluctant to pass on any practical advice on this one. I’m sorry. It was very blustery, though. Make sure you take plenty of warm clothes (and any seasickness pills if you need them!) Report back and let us know what’s like there these days…
Thanks for the warm clothes tip! I’ll ask around about a good base when I get close to the area. I’ll have to pass through or very near both anyway to get from Peru to Bolivia. I will definitely report back!