Too many people miss the best of winter in Geneva by heading straight from the airport to the slopes. Here’s an inside guide to the best things to do in Geneva in winter.
Your Travel Guide to the Winter Months in Geneva
I’ll admit I made a mistake when it comes to Geneva. Like many, I connected in the airport en route to the ski slopes of France and Switzerland and, apart from working out how to drive from Geneva airport without ending up back where I started, I didn’t give it much further thought.
That first changed many moons ago, in the early days of this blog. Flight schedules meant I had to overnight in Geneve, so I made the most of the time I had. I zipped from the city’s main train station to the Red Cross and Crescent Museum, penned one of the earliest pieces I ever wrote, and left with the sight of the fraying leg of the chair sculpture for landmine victims in my heart forever.
It’s a worthy place to visit, for sure – and I’d highly recommend you go.
But there is more than that, the Jardin Anglais and the neatly trimmed flower clock.
There’s a winter Geneva built for families, with glitter, fun and sparkle. In fact, I’d go as far to describe it as one of the most underrated winter wonderland destinations in Europe.
So what can you do there? That’s what I’m going to talk to you about today.
Disclosure: we visited the city of Geneva on this occasion as part of a project with Switzerland Tourism and Geneva Tourism, although we have visited several times before. As ever, as always, we kept the right to write what we like. Otherwise, what’s the point? Also, if you book or buy through any of the links on this page, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Cheers!
Geneva in Winter at a Glance
Geneva in November and December is especially atmospheric. Lakeside promenades glow with fairy lights, wooden chalets line the waterfront and stalls steam with mulled wine. The streets of the Old Town shimmer in the frost, the Jet d’Eau erupts like a frozen firework and all the cosy cheese and chocolate in the world seems justified after such a good dusting of winter.
It’s easy to overlook, too, just how important Geneva has been in the history of Europe. Centuries ago, it was dubbed “Protestant Rome” and became the heart of the Reformation, while today scientists conquer new frontiers in particle physics amid the snow in CERN.
Winter temperatures usually hover close to freezing, though the cold here feels gentler than in the mountains. Days can begin in mist and fog and end in golden light, with stunning views towards Mont Blanc on clear afternoons.
You can find museums, chocolate workshops, and open air tuk-tuk rides, and glide across borders on Belle Epoque paddle steamers.
It all makes visiting Geneva in winter something of a treat: a city with plenty to do outdoors, yet with enough cosy interiors to welcome you back inside.
Here are the specifics.
The Best Things to do in Winter in Geneva
Explore Geneva’s Old Town
Geneva’s Old Town is the city’s true heart in winter. The steep streets and cobbled alleys take on a hushed atmosphere, especially early in the morning when the air is still and the rooftops shine with frost. It is a place to wander rather than rush. St Pierre Cathedral stands at the centre, its towers offering panoramic views of Lake Geneva, mountains and winding medieval streets. I know it can feel as though everywhere has a cathedral but this one was a central site of the Protestant Reformation and since 1535, it’s been the Protestant church. You’ll hear the phrase “protestant Rome” a lot around these parts.
Nearby, the Maison Tavel provides a thoughtful introduction to Geneva’s past, while the Promenade de la Treille stretches along the bastion with Europe’s longest bench. On clear afternoons, locals gather here to admire the gentle light over the city.
Parc des Bastions lies just below, home to the Reformation Wall, giant chess boards and winter greenery that crunches underfoot.
If this all sounds lovely but rather vague, I have two different ways to bring the route to life. See the Choco Pass and The Guardian’s Trail below.
Glide Across Lake Geneva
Crossing Lake Geneva by boat in winter feels different from the same journey in summer. The light is softer, the colours cooler, and the shoreline more dramatic against the grey-blue water. The Mouettes genevoises boats glide back and forth between quays, offering views of the Jet d’Eau from new angles. Even short crossings can be refreshing, especially when followed by a lakeside walk.
And what makes it even easier is that it’s covered by the Geneva Transport card. No extra tickets required (but you do need to check in at the desk.)
We opted for the one hour cruise, but you can go for longer, taking a day trip along the lake or visiting smaller towns on the French side.
One of the best things to do in Geneva is to board the Italie, a steam paddler lovingly restored from its Belle Epoque days and original launch in 1908. Videos below deck show how artisans hand painted and upholstered their way to the floating slice of history you can board today.
Head to Quai du Mont Blanc – the ride is included in the Geneva City Pass.
Get Festive at the Christmas Market
Even a big city can have a cute and cosy festive spot.
The Quai de Noël Christmas market transforms the lakeside into its own festive village. Wooden stalls sell handmade crafts like candles, personalised prints and wooden creatures in felt. A myriad of food stalls serve everything from pretzels to oysters and smoked salmon, along with mulled wine, of course, steam rising into the air. And strings of lights reflect off the water while children whizz around on an illuminated carousel.
It wouldn’t be Switzerland without a fondue and raclette, and the furthest chalet serves up just that.
I have to admit that after a number of seriously disappointing festival food moments around the world, my hopes weren’t high.
However, this pop up spot has managed to create a stunning winter feast. Elbow your way, politely, through the crowds to keep up with the waitress and sit at shared tables, the chatter of people around you warming up the room.
Then plunge those forks into the molten cheese and enjoy some of the best fondue I’ve ever tasted.
If you’re visiting Geneva in December, or even in late November or early January, then its Christmas markets make for a perfect winter escape.
Indulge in Chocolate: Here’s How to Do It Properly
Switzerland and chocolate go hand in hand, and Geneva is ready to show you why.
Enter the Choco Pass, a self-guided chocolate tour that allows you to visit a curated selection of chocolatiers within a twenty four hour period. If pralines, truffles and creamy sips of hot chocolate can’t motivate you to add extra twists and turns to your journey through the Old Town, then I don’t know what will. Bright, shiny chocolatiers, rustic, antique-themed chocolatiers and everything in between, it’s a lovely way to break away from mindlessly wandering and an easy introduction to, well, talking to local people.
If you’re in Geneva in November and December, then look out for the traditional marmites de l’escalade.
For something more hands-on, you can join one of the chocolate classes at La Bonbonnière. After a short initial video about just why Switzerland is the king of chocolate (short version, engineer left a machine on too long, discovered how to make it tasty) you get to work.
Read about the Marmites de l’Escalade we made over here.
See Geneva by Tuk Tuk with Welo Swiss
OK, I’ll admit this one was a wild card. But our guide, Yanick turned it into one of our favourite Geneva winter activities.
An electric tuk tuk, lined with blankets and powered by a silent motor, offers a surprisingly snug way to explore the city. Welo Swiss runs fully customisable tours that highlight viewpoints most visitors miss. In winter, the clear air often brings excellent visibility over the lake and rooftops, as indeed it did for us, as Yanick swooped us up to the home of Mary Shelley, author of Frankenstein, in a neighbourhood for the rich and famous and one which comes with fantastic views.
From there, we zipped along to Carouge, a place whose cobblestones inspired the chocolate cubes we’d tasted earlier. And finally on to the Old Town where he sneakily helped us find some of the final clues in the challenge.
Child’s Play: Decoding The Guardians Trail and Taking a spin on the Ice Rink
Geneva’s winter activities extend well beyond museums.
We loved The Guardians Trail, a puzzling self-guided adventure that encourages children to solve clues around the city (although, primarily the Old Town.) It’s engaging without requiring long walks, and aimed at children 8-12 so it is something you can get your teeth into.
Even for us adults, it made us spot details we’d otherwise miss, such as the key on the Molard Tower and the tree on Promenade de Treille.
It also took us, rather by accident, to Parc des Bastions which also hosts an open-air ice skating rink that feels old-fashioned in all the right ways. Another one of the lovely winter activities in Geneva.
Visit CERN: Science in the Snow
Now, if you’re short on time, this is a bit of a detour. But as scientists by training, we couldn’t pass up a chance to take baby Lab to the largest hadron collider in the world.
It’s only 25 minutes from the city centre in a single tram visit that lands you right at the entrance to the CERN Science Gateway – and the interactive exhibits are absorbing enough to warm you up even on the chilliest day. Here, particle physics sits beside human-scale storytelling (and some very cool art) making it accessible even to those who have never pondered the mysteries of the universe before.
Although, I’ll be honest, some of it still feels incomprehensible. But it’s not the museum’s fault.
Guided tours must be booked well in advance and can be limited during the winter season, but even without them, kids can play and you can all learn a lot.
Watch a feather and metal ball fall at the same rate. Try to make your own atom. And generally be blown away by the concepts that take place here in the world’s largest freezer.
Possibly my favourite exhibit? The computer that was used as the first ever server for the world wide web.
Without that, you would never be reading these words today. What a thought.
Follow Empress Sisi’s Story To The End
This may be a little niche, but I first became hooked on the history of Empress Elisabeth, or Sisi, in Vienna, long before Netflix decided it was a story worth covering.
She spent her final night at the Hotel Beau-Rivage before her assassination nearby. A plaque marks the spot beside the lake, where the winter wind often brushes across the water.
Inside the hotel itself, you can visit her rooms – although they were closed for refurbishment when we visited.
However, the Christmas display in the hotel atrium puts all others to shame for its sense of style, beauty and luxury. It’s within walking distance of the Christmas Markets, so pop in for a quick visit – and to just appreciate a job well done!
Warm Up in Geneva’s Museums
If the weather turns, then winter in Geneva lends itself to long afternoons in museums. The Patek Philippe Museum reveals the intricacies of Swiss watchmaking, with timepieces so delicate they seem like winter snowflakes preserved in gold. The Museum of Art and History offers a broad sweep of archaeology, fine art and decorative objects, making it easy to spend hours inside without noticing the cold outside.
The Red Cross Museum provides a sober yet compelling experience, exploring humanitarian efforts and personal stories from around the world. It’s an important but harrowing spot, so I wouldn’t recommend this if you’re visiting with young children.
Together, these spaces ensure that even the coldest winter day finds meaning and warmth.
Where to Eat in Geneva in the Winter
Honestly, most of these spots deserve a position in the best places to visit in Geneva section. All very different, they each offer a sense of theatre as well as a tasty meal. One that’s appreciated all the more when a cold winter wind waits outside.
The city offers a thoughtful mix of traditional brasseries, contemporary kitchens and seasonal pop-ups that keep residents entertained. And with prior reservations, you can get in as well.
Brasserie Lipp
Brasserie Lipp is an institution in Paris and it brings brings a slice of Parisian brasserie life to the heart of Geneva. It is lively on even the dreariest of winter days, with mirrored walls, crisp linen and waiters who move with a kind of choreographed grace. The menu leans towards classic French comfort food with steaming seafood platters, onion soup, steaks and rich sauces that feel especially welcome after a long winter walk. It is the sort of place where you can escape the chill, watch the room fill with conversation and linger over a glass of wine without feeling rushed.
Breitling Kitchen
Don’t be put off by the watch name. This is a real place to eat.
Breitling Kitchen sits close to the river yet it definitely doesn’t give off a fancy, shmancy vibe. It’s set up as something of a sports bar, with a tapas menu, but don’t be deceived. The food is exquisite, with mini crab brioche and truffle grilled cheese. The decor is just hustling.
Côté Square at Hotel Bristol Geneva
Côté Square, tucked inside Hotel Bristol does embrace the idea of fine dining, with Chef Christophe Pagnot offering a five course Inspiration menu in the evening. Lunch is equally creative, with boeuf bourguignon and saffron infused risotto. And I’d highly recommend the Café Gourmand to finish.
Brunch at the Kiosque in Parc des Bastions
Parc des Bastions becomes a natural gathering place in winter, especially around the open-air ice rink and the Reformation Wall. At the centre sits the Kiosque des Bastions, a glass-fronted brasserie with a warm glow amid the pale winter light.
Their brunch is a local favourite, with platters of fresh prawns, carpaccio de polpo and fresh fruit flans artfully arranged above jade green tiles.
It’s worth taking your time here, watching skaters glide past outside or reading a newspaper while the city wakes up. But booking in advance is essential.
Pop-up Fondue at the Christmas Market
No winter visit to Geneva is complete without a bowl of melted cheese enjoyed outdoors. The pop-up fondue chalets at the Christmas Markets recreate a sit-down Alpine dining experience by bringing fondue and raclette straight to the lakeside. Wooden tables, wool blankets and strings of lights create a cosy setting, and nothing warms you up quite as much as hot cheese.
Where to Stay in Geneva: Hotel Bristol
Hotel Bristol Geneva makes an inviting base for winter travel. Located close to the lake and a short walk from the main train station, it offers both convenience and character. Rooms are warm and spacious, with thoughtful design touches that feel particularly welcome after hours spent in the cold. The spa, with its sauna, steam room and jacuzzi, provides restorative warmth that, let’s face it, matters more in winter than at any other time.
How to Get Around Geneva (The Easiest Transport System in the World?)
One of the reasons I fell in love with Switzerland was its embrace of the transport card.
Stay in approved accommodation and you receive a free Geneva Transport card. With such a card, transport is, as the name suggests, free for access to Geneva’s public transport network UNIRESO: buses (TPG), trains (CFF), and boats (Mouettes genevoises). It is unlimited for the entire duration of your stay.
Which is mind boggling compared to the cost and complexity of transport in London, for example.
And while the saving in money is nice, the real benefit is the saving in headaches. Instead of spending your precious holiday time trying to work out zones and colour codes, you can just get on and off public transport without having to worry about decoding the Enigma.
Your hotel should send you a link before you arrive, so you can even use it for transport to your hotel.
That said, if you stay near the Old Town or the shores of Lake Geneva, you can walk to most places, saving transport for places like CERN, the Red Cross Museum and to get out to the airport.
Distances are short, pavements are well maintained and there are enough cafés serving hot chocolate to keep you warm.
Geneva Airport sits only a few minutes away by train, making arrivals unusually smooth even during the winter season. The main train station, Gare Cornavin, anchors the city’s transport network and offers connections for day trips from Geneva into the Swiss Alps or to lakeside towns such as Lausanne and Montreux.
Winter Activities and Day Trips from Geneva
Geneva sits at the edge of the Swiss Alps, so you can take a day trip by train into snow-covered landscapes for skiing, snowshoeing or simply admiring the mountain scenery. Towns such as Annecy, with its canals and mountain backdrop, are beautiful at any time of year, but the winter adds a bit of Frozen-style sparkle.
Closer to sea level, Montreux, Lausanne and various vineyards lie within easy reach by boat, car or rail.
See why winter in Lausanne is so special.
Geneva Winter Weather Practical Tips
The best time to visit Geneva depends on what you hope to see.
Geneva in December offers a festive atmosphere with Christmas markets and winter lights, while January and February often bring clearer skies and fewer visitors.
Two or three days is usually just about enough time to visit the main sights, with room for a workshop or a day trip. (Although my family would disagree – they always wish we could slow down a little!)
Packing layers is essential. Winter temperatures can change quickly, and gloves, scarves and warm boots make the narrow cobbled streets much easier to navigate. Restaurant reservations are recommended, especially for popular winter dishes like cheese fondue at the market.
And while Geneva offers a wide range of activities, many of its greatest pleasures remain simple: strolling along the lakeside, watching the Jet d’Eau shift with the wind, and ending the day with something warm in hand – and belly.
All of which you will enjoy much more if you haven’t frozen solid. Check out our ultimate travel packing list here.
How to Make it Happen
Switzerland Tourism
For more information on Switzerland, visit switzerland.com
Swiss International Air Lines (SWISS)
SWISS connects Switzerland with the world, offering more than 160 weekly flights from London Heathrow, London City, Manchester, Birmingham and Edinburgh to Zurich or Geneva. One-way fares start from £76 to Zurich and from £54 to Geneva, and include all taxes, fees and surcharges, one piece of checked luggage weighing up to 23kg and one piece of hand luggage. swiss.com
Travel Switzerland
Travel Switzerland’s Swiss Travel Pass offers international visitors to Switzerland unlimited travel on consecutive days across the rail, bus and boat network, plus scenic routes (seat reservation fees apply) and local trams and buses in around 90 towns and cities. It also includes the Swiss Museum Pass, which grants free entry to 500 museums and exhibitions. Prices start from £229 for a three-day second-class ticket. travelswitzerland.com
More About Travel in Switzerland
- Why winter in Lausanne is so special
- Everything you need to know about an ebike holiday in Verbier
- How to spend two days in Geneva
- Your 24 hour itinerary for Geneva
- Why you should spend summer in Switzerland
- Is the Swiss Travel Pass worth it?
- The 10 Most Scenic Train Rides in Switzerland
- The story behind the chocolate cauldron in Geneva
