From stunning skylines, hidden sects, secret passageways and seriously good food. Find unusual things to do in Rome right here, with this behind the scenes guide.
If you book or buy through the links on this page, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. However, we only ever recommend things we believe in and use ourselves. Some may have been provided for review purpose, others we paid for. Same rules apply. See the small print below for thrillingly exciting details.
For all that the Vatican lives in the centre of Rome, Christianity is not the only religion in town. Today, we know that Christianity established a strong hold on Rome, to put it mildly, but at the time of it's arrival, nothing was certain.
A myriad of beliefs and sects jostled for power amid the marble-columned backdrop of ancient Rome. Some met beneath the earth for maximum privacy.
Context Travel offer tours led by docents (academics) who, quite literally, take you underground to show you the secret meeting places and worship rituals of secretive men who met two thousand years ago.
Rome is surprisingly short of skyline views but once I found one that worked, my word it was beautiful. The rooftop terrace at the Rome Cavalieri overlooks the city of the seven hills almost in its entirety. You can see the dome of St Paul's, the arc of the colosseum and the terracotta spread of a world capital that seems exempt from the usual uniform of concrete skyscraper grey.
What's even better? The hotel also has a pool so if the heat from the city-slicker life is getting you down, you can hop on in and cool off with a dip.
The rooftop terrace on the 9th floor showcases that incredible view, but for me the best part, by far, was watching the sun set over Rome from the privacy of my own balcony on Room 761.
St Peter’s. The Colosseum. The shadowy curves of those historic hills.
I could have watched the changing patterns of the sky all night.
Barring time asleep, that’s exactly what I did.
Until daybreak came and it was time to head into town.
Visit the narrow streets of “wrong side of the tracks” Trastevere, where green tendrils and scarlet petals spill out from lopsided windows and vespas laze in the shadows.
It was small shop on an unremarkable street.
Twirls and swirls of thick white paint flick across the shop window, shadowed by shades of crimson and green. And call me romantic but the words seem to have been written with love.
Baccala e ceci. Il prosciutto del bon Gustaio. Porchetta di Ariccia.
Inside, there’s a queue, also small. It matches the range of products for sale.
Authentic. Small. Elegantly arranged.
Cardboard-boxed pasta curls and red wine line the shelves and the counters reveal rosemary-soaked pizza bianca.
But mostly, it’s all about the porchetta. Salty. Salted. Thickly cut and surprisingly melt in the mouth.
Give yourself the gift of time and wander around this beautiful neighbourhood by yourself, stopping for bites to eat.
Head to St Peter's Square after closing time and you may find yourselves the only ones there, save for the odd passing nun and ever watchful Swiss Guard.
Walk on foot from the squat Castel Sant’Angelo along the banks of the Tiber.
The columns seem taller and iridescent, the sainted stone statues more watchful, more close by. The Swiss Guards seem more relaxed and the pink tinge to the sky makes the fountain-footed obelisk appear to glow in charcoal and peach.
Even in the peak season of Rome's busiest year, I wandered around alone by following this trick.
True, Italy has a great reputation for gastronomy. But like Venice, Rome sometimes struggles with its own popularity. Sure, it's hard to find bad food, but simply being not bad isn't enough to be good.
Do yourself a favour and book yourself onto a good food tour in Rome (here's one I would recommend) and learn the difference between parmesan and pecorino, pizza bianca and porchetta.
I opted for the four hour daylight tour, a voyage through around 20 or so different specialty shops, one open air market and not one but two sit down restaurants with an impromptu gelato and coffee stop thrown in.
It was a blur of gastronomic brilliance, with around ten or so fellow explorers. We saw pecorino cheese stacked waist high and bulbous cheese hanging from the rafters.
We tasted suppli, a deep fried rice ball, on the streets and sugar-dusted pastries indoors.
We sat for wine and pasta, stood for gelato, strolled past pumpkin and prosciutto in the market and slid forks through freshly sliced watermelon
And best of all, the people we met seemed pleased to see us too. Shopkeepers were ready, chefs passionate.
Through pregnancy and a few other issues, my diet was no longer carefree and I’d braced myself to sit on the culinary sidelines as it were.
But the Trasteverini weren’t having any of it.
When it came to gelato, they found me sorbet. For soft, gooey cheese, they substituted hard. Cured meat was swapped with cooked, and cream-laden dessert became so many different types of biscuits and coconut sweets that I struggled to take them all in.
And all without making a fuss, all with making me feel welcome.
Other food tours, which shall remain nameless, have a lot to learn.
I fell in foodie heaven. And it was definitely one of the best things to do in Rome.
Once pizza and pasta start to heard thin, head to Ginger Sapori e Salute right in the heart of Rome. From breakfast til dinner they serve organic, sustainable, healthy food in (ahem) a highly instagrammable setting.
The Rome Cavalieri Hotel
The Rome Cavalieri, part of the Waldorf Astoria and Hilton Worldwide network marries cream and gold rooms with opulence, service and one of Rome's rare outdoor pools.
It’s a large place, a village within a village, and it’s some way out of town. At another time in life, I would have longed to be in among the action, the sweaty, cobbled trattoria-lined streets of the beating heart of Rome around the Vatican.
On this visit, I needed a sancturay.
There’s an indoor pool and gym, too, awash with marble and a Roman nose, because, let’s face it, even Rome lives within Europe’s greyer winter climes.
I tackled the basket of focaccia, walnut and olive bread with peppery olive oil and a first course of delicately spiced Roman rigatoncini “Amatriciana” pasta.
However, the suckling pork on a bed of lentils defeated me and I declined the option of dessert.
“You will need to change if you are to understand this country, “ the waiter told me. “We love to eat! Some days, that is all we do…”
The petits fours arrived whether I agreed to them or not… ;-)
The Cavalieri also houses La Pergola, the only restaurant with three Michelin-stars in Rome, but, as you’d expect, you need to book well in advance and the last minute nature of my trip didn’t give me the time to try it this time around.
What to Know About the Rome Cavalieri
The Rome Cavalieri doesn’t lie within walking distance of the main sights of Rome. A free shuttle bus operates every hour, more or less, with up to date details available from the concierge.
You need to reserve sunbeds (and pay extra depending on your room rate.)
Hi, I'm Abi, a doctor turned writer who's worked with Lonely Planet, the BBC, UNESCO and more. Let's travel more and think more. Find out more.
Please log in again. The login page will open in a new tab. After logging in you can close it and return to this page.