Road Trip Galicia, Spain – The Undiscovered Northern Coast

By Abi King | Spain

Jun 19
Galicia Road Trip Planner

Galicia Road Trip Planner

Road Trip Galicia, Spain: The Salty Northern Sea Coast

Of course, every coast is salty. But northwest Spain’s Galician coastline seems the saltiest of all: its landscape licked into shape by the churning, whirling waves, its cuisine at one with the sea and its architecture, history and general attitude shaped by the way that surf reaches the shore.

This is a place to experience the real side of Spain, away from tower blocks, fake paella and concrete-edged, crowded hotel pools.

Overdeveloped resorts, you know who you are.

Galicia Spain-Green and full of mystery and mythology

Galicia: Brimming with pilgrimage sites and links to Ireland

Road Trip Galicia, Spain: Intricate, Delicate, Yet Immensely Strong

In Galicia, the curves and swerves of the coastline resemble the fused sutures of the skull: intricate, delicate and yet immensely strong.

Few regions in the world are like this, the closest one to mention would be Ireland’s wild Atlantic way. In fact, should you set sail without a sail from that part of Ireland, Galicia is where you would wash up, as many monks did centuries and centuries ago.

Galicia, Spain - wild and beautiful

With short flights from London and a car and sat nav on board, it’s easy to wiggle your way along the coast from La Coruña to Santiago de Compostela and enjoy an authentic Spain that few visitors get to see.

I cheated, a little, in this case. Heading off with a guide, a driver and a couple of good friends, this plan left me with more time to gaze through the windows, to stand on the clifftops and to track down some churros.

The fields may be green, the weather changeable, but some of the sweetest parts of Spanish culture still, of course, remain.

Churros in Galicia Spain

Churros in Galicia. Not a tourist in sight.

Galicia’s Curious Geography

Galicia’s distinctive landscape, a mix of lakes, valleys, soft-sand beaches and ferocious, raging-black cliffs, results from a blip in geography.

Like most places, valleys developed as the rivers ran into the sea. Years ago, when the sea levels rose, cutting off Britain, the coastline of Galicia flooded. The sea flowed inland across the rivers, creating marshy, wide rias you can still see today.

It’s these rias that explain the extended, Loch Ness monster-like bridges.

And it’s these rias that explain the high quality, ubiquitous seafood.

Galicia Spain Gastronomy

Galicia mixes Michelin star dining with hearty, fresh seafood and dinosaur claw-like barnacles

Galician Lighthouses

It’s Galicia’s coastline that creates its lighthouse trail: from black and white and candy-striped red right to the oldest functioning lighthouse in the world, the UNESCO World Heritage Site Roman lighthouse in La Coruña.

In short, and much as I hate the overused term, a road trip along Galicia’s coastline provides a real taste of the real Spain. And yes, everything we experience is real, no matter where we are.

But. Well. You know what I mean…

Galicia Spain-Lighthouses and fishing villages

Galicia: Lighthouses and Fishing Villages, A Feature of the Coastline

 

 


Where to Stay in Galicia 

The Sleeping Chestnut is a treehouse for grown-ups in Galicia. 

As we pulled up outside El Castaño Dormilón, I’ll admit, my hopes were not that high.

A stone brick house on an unmarked road; trees crammed tight, their canopies like clouds.

I’d be lying if I didn’t briefly consider using those infamous words: Bates Motel.

How wrong a girl can be.

El Castaño Dormilón - careful attention to detail

El Castaño Dormilón: Awash with White and Light

Inside this former village school, the rooms were awash with white and light. My suite at the top of the house bore skylights that seemed to reach and kiss the trees.

The name El Castaño Dormilón means sleeping chestnut, a term referring to the local saying and also the heavy presence of wood in this restored place of childhood learning.

It’s a rare place that can successfully marry minimalist chic with gnarly wooden beams, but owners Mónica and Alex pull it off and with aplomb.

They’re friendly and welcoming, yet know when to step back and allow their guests some privacy.

El Castaño Dormilón-the suite

Mónica used to work in the arts magazine trade in Barcelona, on the other side of the coast, perhaps explaining her eye for artistic detail. A bold splash of colour here, a scroll of poetry there.

Red splashes among the grown up luxury treehouse

Rooms have different themes and colours, although all look as though they belong. The white suite on the top floor has a dressing area, desk and free wifi, jacuzzi jet bathroom with transparent walls to the rest of the room. Beyond the skylights, normal windows open up into the trees, creating the idea, I’m sure, that this is a luxury treehouse for grown-ups.

El Castaño Dormilón- among the trees in Spain

A Smegg kettle and teacups provide a morning pick-up before taking the lift downstairs.

El Castaño Dormilón-Smegg Kettle

The open spaces downstairs seem designed for reading, eating, or quiet contemplation.

El Castano Dormilon open spaces

Mónica and Alex serve up traditional Galician seafood: crusty bread and lemon-zested shellfish.

Galician Seafood via @insidetravellab

They also have a wonderful approach to dietary restrictions, a rare pleasure these days in the world of travel.

What I Loved about El Castaño Dormilón

  • The cool blend of chic white and renovated wood.
  • The trees in the skylight.
  • The small, artistic touches throughout.
  • The caring consideration of dietary restrictions.
  • Comfy bed. Very.
  • Hassle-free fast wifi
  • Great service: friendly but not intrusive
  • Disabled access
  • The approach to renewable energy

Travel to Galicia, Spain from the UK

Flights take around two hours from either London Heathrow, Gatwick or Stansted to La Coruña, Santiago de Compostela or Vigo. Find more about travel to Galicia here.

I also received a complimentary ticket from the Heathrow Express to connect from my Cardiff – London Paddington train to the airport. The Heathrow Express has changed a lot since I used to live in London: it’s now possible to get tickets for as little as £5.50 if you book in advance.


Disclosure: I travelled to Galicia, Spain as part of a project between Captivate and the Spanish Tourist Board. As ever, as always I kept the right to write what I like. Otherwise I lose the will to even enjoy my churros. Life is just too short.


Find the ultimate road trip itinerary to Galicia, Spain here.

 
Highlights of Spain > Galicia is a place to experience the real side of Spain, away from tower blocks, fake paella and concrete-edged, crowded hotel pools - via @insidetravellab
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About the Author

Hi, I'm Abi, a doctor turned writer who's worked with Lonely Planet, the BBC, UNESCO and more. Let's travel more and think more.

  • Jayne says:

    I’m grateful you tracked down those churros so easily :)

  • Xplorato says:

    Lovely read as always :) the food looked gorgeous and Spain as always never disappoints.

    • Abi King says:

      Ah, thank you! Yes, you can’t go wrong with churros…and the seafood was quite the exploration!

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