January 23

Tasty & Traditional Jordanian Food Recipes From Cooking Lessons in Amman, Jordan

Food, Jordan, Middle East

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Traditional Jordanian Food Recipes learned at Beit Sitti in Amman

Jordanian cooking is built to share, making mealtimes a wonderfully social experience, full of flavour and stories fit for starlight. From my cooking lessons in Amman at Beit Sitti, I'd like to share these traditional Jordanian food recipes. 

Cooking lessons provide two cunningly disguised opportunities:

  • The chance to eat a meal that puts the F into fresh and
  •  The chance to really get chatting with locals
  • The chance to bring a part of your trip home.

Enter Beit Sitti, a cooking school in Jordan’s capital, Amman

Recommended reading: The Madaba Mosaics Jordan; Making the Broken Beautiful Again

Beit Sitti: A Cooking School in Amman, Jordan

Nestled in one of Amman's oldest neighbourhoods, Jabal al Weideh, in the oldest city in the world, is the beautiful cooking school Beit Sitti.

You couldn’t ask for a better sense of atmosphere...Hidden at the top of a barely-lit staircase, the smoky orange lights of the city glimmered both in the distance and up close as we arrived. The walls inside were fresh and white, punctuated only by a mirror with borders that glittered like jewels dipped in chocolate.

We weren’t in a school, we were in a Jordanian home. Not that we had long to appreciate it.

Maria, the English-speaking of our two chefs, moves at about twice my speed and speaks at about thrice my volume despite being half my size.

She confiscates my camera, my  pen and my notebook and I’m set to work. Hands washed, sleeves rolled, apron tied, knife at the ready.

Me cooking Jordanian foodShe eases me in gently, by giving me an onion to chop. I relax a little. 1950s housewife I may not be, but even I can chop an onion.

“You might find it works better,” she says ten seconds later, “if you do it like this.”

She pinches one side of the halved onion and slices it swiftly until it resembles a closed accordion. She then holds that tight, turns the knife on its side and cuts parallel to the table, aiming for her palm. After enough shifts spent stitching together fingers in my former life, I can’t help but flinch at the sight.

“Here,” she sets down a glass of cloudy liquid. “Have some arak. It’s like Arabic ouzo.”

Never has a description enticed me less.

Arak - traditional Jordanian spirit

Jordanian Food After Arak

Aniseed fires along my throat and we move on to chopping parsley. Later, outside in the balmy night air, I fry pitta bread and potatoes with Ali, our driver, a timely reminder that preparing food crosses all language barriers.

Back inside, I peel smoked aubergines under the supervision of our haja.

“Haja is a term of respect for older people,” Maria explains. “People who have completed the Haj, the pilgrimage to Mecca. Haj for men, Haja for women.”

Our haja smiles, adjusts the knife so that I chop ingredients into even smaller pieces, and Maria continues talking.

“I am a 'trained chef' in that I take professional cooking classes – although most of that is about French food, but really our Haja know more about cooking than me. Cooking classes of any kind are a strange idea for that generation because the women here learned it all as they were growing up, they learned everything they needed to know about food and cooking that way, at home, as part of normal life."

So, are the meals we’re preparing (recipes below) fresh from fancy chef school or do everyday Jordanians make these meals at home?

“It’s a mixture,” says Maria, and our driver nods to agree.

“The mouttabal, fattoush and siniyet kafta people regularly make at home,” she says. “Whereas knafeh people tend to buy from bakeries for graduations... Or weddings...For special occasions.”

My hands fluff knafeh dough and ghee with squidgy satisfaction.

“We want to show people that they can make knafeh themselves - easily - at home.”

Easily, eh?

Raw ingredients of traditional Jordanian Food

Recommended reading: 27 Ways Food and Travel Go Together (Not just for "Foodies")

Characteristics of Jordanian Food

I wash my hands and head out to the barbecue where aubergine fizzes and spits on the naked flames.

Jordanian food relies heavily on fresh ingredients, often finely chopped. It throws in a hefty dose of subtle spices I’ve since struggled to find at home: sumac, tahini and bakleh. Most meat dishes come with salads that burst with their own flavour, rather than using separate salad dressing as a crutch, and meals usually take the guise of a self-service kind of affair.

Broad ceramic dishes glazed in royal blue are set down on the table, from which everyone helps themselves.

It’s tasty and healthy, well, except for the knafeh that oozes with that kind of sweet, delicious moisture that you know can't come from polyunsaturated lipids.

It’s also surprisingly easy to make. Although I rather wish I hadn’t told you that, in case I ever invite you over for dinner.

You should always remember, though, it's good manners to look impressed.

Making Siniyet Kafta - Jordanian Food Making Siniyet Kafta

 Disclosure: I learned about Jordanian Food at Beit Sitti thanks to the Jordan Tourist Board. All views and mediocre cooking skills remain mine, all mine.

Jordanian food relies heavily on fresh ingredients, often finely chopped. It’s also surprisingly easy to make. - via @insidetravellab


Cooking Class

  • fascinating post.. I like that you capped it off with great photos – It shows me what I know I want to try  – to eat anyway. Agree completely about food crossing all language barriers – a bit off topic, but I have always found that watching cooking shows in other languages is one of the best ways to learn a language… you just know what they’re saying.


    • That’s a good point! Something to remember now I’m back home…


  • Ayngelina says:

    I went here as well and had a great time. Learning to cook is one of my favourite travel activities abroad.


    • And I’m sure you did a better job of it than I did!


  • I have never taken a cooking class. I have a very unhealthy fear of knives. And yet … if it was food I really wanted to cook (like this), I think I could overcome!!


    • Knives, eh? I’ve been to quite a few now but often you can stand back and concentrate on taking photos and making notes. Not with this one! Full steam ahead!


  • Andi of My Beautiful Adventures says:

    Oh what a fabulous experience! Love the pics!!!


  • Kiri Bowers says:

    Whenever I write about food I get warm all over and can’t help dreaming about my next meal…this has made me so hungry!

    I had many Jordanian friends when I was at school and I used to love visiting their houses as their mothers or grandmothers would always have something hot, delicious and sometimes unusual waiting for us to try… Thanks for the recipes too :)

    I’ve just written a foodie blog about Hanoi, maybe you could let me know what you think if you have time?


    • PS – tried to check out your new blog but didn’t like having to sign up to something else to be able to comment…Perhaps check out a simpler system?


    • Hm, where I grew up Jordanian food was in pretty short supply. I didn’t really start trying it out until I moved to London – and then beyond.


  • I’m salivating from your photos. Seeing I’m the cook, Dalene is always pushing me to cook new things. I would love to learn more about Jordanian food. it looks like you had a blast :)


    • Yep, the evening was great fun. One of the best things I loved about food in Jordan was that (as in, say, Spain and China) everyone shares. A few dishes go down in the centre of the table and you can have a taste of each. I love it. And much prefer it to the “English” standard (one person=one meal.)


  • Nomadic Samuel says:

    I love the candid shot of everyone sharing a special moment while cooking :)


    • Well, I won’t tell you what we were laughing about ;)


  • Delish. I never really had eaten much Middle Eastern food in the US, and then I went to Israel and became obsessed!


  • Bethaney - Flashpacker Family says:

    Looks divine. My palate is aching for something a little more exotic after two months in South East Asia. You’re making me hungry!


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